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York

YORK is the north's most compelling city, a place whose history, said George VI, "is the history of England". This is perhaps overstating things a little, but it reflects the significance of a metropolis that until the Industrial Revolution was second only to London in population and importance, not only at the heart of the country's religious life, but also a key player in some of the major events that have shaped the nation. These days a more provincial air hangs over the city, except in summer when York feels like a heritage site for the benefit of tourists. That said, no trip to this part of the country is complete without a visit to York, and the city's former importance has made it easy to get to, with plen­ty of road and rail connections. Heavy tourist traffic has also produced plenty of accommodation, with the emphasis on small B&B places in quiet residential districts near the city centre. And if you want more than museums and monumen ts, York's university and colleges provide the spur for a reasonably healthy nightlife.

The city is well placed for any number of day-trips: the coast is only an hour away by car or train (longer by bus), while Harrogate, Knaresborough and Ripon are all easily accessible, too. However, if you've only time for one day-trip, it should probably be to Castle Howard, the gem amongst English state­ly homes. There's a different kind of nostalgia at work at nearby Eden Camp - a World War II museum occupying buildings that once housed German pris-oners-of-war.

The Romans chose York's swampy position, at the confluence of two minor rivers, as the site of a military camp during their campaigns against the Brigantes in 71 AD, and in time this fortress became a city - Eboracum, cap­ital of the empire s northern European territories and one of its most impor­tant administrative centres. The base for Hadrian's northern campaigns, it was also ruled for three years by Septimius Severus, one of two emperors to die in the city. The other, Constantine Chlorus, was the father of Constantine the Great, first Christian emperor and founder of Constantinople; at Chlorus' death, his son was proclaimed Roman Emperor here — the only occasion an emperor was enthroned in Britain.

Much fought over after the decline of Rome, the city emerged as a Saxon vassal, Eoforwic, and later became the fulcrum of Christianity in northern England. It was here, on Easter Day in 627, that Bishop Paulinus, on a mission to establish the Roman Church, baptized King Edwin of Northumbria in a small timber chapel built for the purpose. Six years later the church became the first minster and Paulinus the first archbishop ofYork. In 867 the city fell to the Danes, who renamed it Jorvik, and later made it the capital of eastern England (Danelaw), following a treaty in 886 between Alfred the Great and Guthrum the Dane. Later Viking raids culminated in the decisive Battle of Stamford Bridge (1066) six miles east of the city, where English King Harold defeated Norse King Harald - a Pyrrhic victory in the event, for his weakened army was defeated by the Normans just a few days later at the Battle of Hastings, with well-known conseq uences for all concerned. In York, aside from the phys­ical remains left by the Vikings on show in several of the museums, the very street names tell of their profound influence the suffix "-gate" is derived from an old Norse word for street.

The Normansdevastated much of York's hinterland in their infamous "Harrying of the North", building two castles astride the Ouse in the city itself. Stone walls were thrown up during the thirteenth century, when the city became a favoured Plantagenet retreat and commercial capital of the north, its importance reflected in the new title of Duke ofYork, bestowed ever since on the monarch's second son. The 48 York Mystery Plays, one of only four sur­viving such cycles, date from this era, created by the powerful guilds that rose with the city's woollen industry.

Although Henry VIII's Dissolution of the Monasteries took its toll on a city crammed with religious houses, York remained strongly wedded to the Catholic cause, and the most famous of the Gunpowder Plot conspirators, Guy Fawkes, was born here. During the Civil War Charles I established his court in the city, which was strongly pro-Royalist, inviting a Parliamentarian siege that was eventually lifted by Prince Rupert of the Rhine, a nephew of the King. Rupert's troops, however, were routed by Cromwell and Sir Thomas

Fairfax at the Battle of Marston Moor in 1644, another seminal battle in England's history, which took place just six miles west ofYork. It's said that only the fact that Fairfax was a local man saved York from destruction.

The city's eighteenth-century history was marked by its emergence as a social centre for Yorkshire's landed elite. Whilst the Industrial Revolution largely passed it by, the arrival of the railways brought renewed prosperity, thanks to the enterprise of pioneering "Railway King" George Hudson, lord mayor during the 1830s and 1840s.The railway is still a major employer, as is the con­fectionery industry, in the shape of companies such as Terry Suchard and Nestle, together with the proceeds from new service and bioscience industries not forgetting, of course, the income from four million annual tourists.



York Getting around guide

Trains arrive at York Station, just outside the city walls on the west side of the River Ouse, a 750-yard walk from the historic core.There are information and accommodation centres at the station and a luggage-storage office. Long-haul National Express buses and most other regional bus services drop off and pick up on Rougier Street, 200yd north of the train station, just before Lendal Bridge, though National Express services call at the train station, too. Arriving by car you'd be advised to park in one of the car parks on the roads shadow­ing the city walls: in the north, Gillygate and Clarence Street are closest to the Minster; Piccadilly and Tower Street in the southeast are convenient for Clifford's Tower and the Castle Museum; and there are also car parks on Queen Street near the train station.

There's a useful tourist office at the train station (April-Oct Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 9.30am-4.30pm; Nov-March Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 10am-4pm), though the main office is over Lendal Bridge, 200yd west of the Minster in the De Grey Rooms, on Exhibition Square (April—Oct Mon—Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 10am-5pm; Nov-March Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 10am—4pm). Each office shares the same telephone number and useful website (01904/621756, iwww.visityork.org), can provide maps and leaflets on every conceivable tour and attraction, and has an accommodation service (see opposite). Also check out the York City Council website, www.york.gov.uk, for details of the major sites, museums, galleries and much else.

Walking is the best way to acquaint yourself with the city, and often the only way to get from A to B, given the confused historic layout of pedestrianized streets, alleys and yards. City bus routes are operated by First York (01904/622992), though visitors are unlikely to get much use out of their FirstDay (.£2.10) or FirstWeek rover tickets GC10), available on board the buses. Consider renting a bike instead, as York is one of the country's most bike-friendly cities, with over forty miles of cycle lanes and paths.



York Accommodation Guide

York is a busy tourist town, with the range of accommodation you'd expect,' from countless cheap B&Bs to a clutch of luxury hotels. The main B&B con-: centrations are in the sidestreets off Bootham and Clifton (immediately west' of Exhibition Square), as well as in the Mount area (turn right out of the sta-j tion and head down Blossom Street. Booking's definitely a good idea from; June to August, and bear in mind that many places aren't keen on single-night stays in summer. If you're stuck for a bed, make straight for the tourist offices,; who'll book you a room. They also put out an accommodation list if you want to hunt on your own, and there's a useful board of places posted in the station office window. Or consider the rooms at the various budget chains, , like Travelodge, Holiday Inn Express, Ramada, Novotel, Quality Hotel, and so on, .. which all have hotels in York. In a r eversal of policy in most cities, larger hotels' j here tend to charge slightly less during the week than at weekends.



York information listings

Banks and exchange Most main banks are in and around St Helen's Square. American Express, 6 Stonegate; Thomas Cook, 4 Nessgate, and inside HSBC, 13 Parliament St. You can also change money at the tourist offices; in Marks and Spencer, 9 Pavement; and at Lunn Poly, 14 Low Ousegate.

Bike rental Bob Trotter, 13-15 Lord Mayor's Walk, at Monkgate 01904/622868, www .bobtrottercycles.com. Rates from £ 10 per day, plus a deposit.

Bookshop Biggest selection in the city is at Borders, 1-5 Oavygate, where there's also a cafe.

Bus information Traveline York, 20 George Hudson St (office Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm; tele­phone enquiries Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-2pm; 01904/551400) can advise about all local and regional bus (and train) information. Or call National Express 08705/808080; East Yorkshire 01482/222222 (for Hull, Beverley and Bridlington); or Yorkshire Coastliner 01653/692556 (for Leeds, Castle Howard, Pickering, Scarborough and Whitby).

Car rental Avis 01904/610460; Budget 01904/644919; Europcar 01904/656161; Hertz 01904/612586; Practical 01904/624277.

Hospital York District Hospital , Wigginton Road (24hr emergency number 01904/631313); bus #1, #2 or #3. Also York Walk-in Centre, 31 Monkgate (01904/674557) offers care, advice and treatment without an appointment. Internet Internet Exchange, 13 Stonegate 01904/638808; Gateway, 26 Swinegate © 01904/646446; access also available at the youth hostels.

Pharmacy Boots, Coney St 01904/653657.

Police Fulford Rd © 01904/631321.

Post office The main office is at 22 Lendal 01904/617285.

Racing York Racecourse 01904/620911, www.yorkracecourse.co.uk. One of Britain's finest, York Racecourse has regular meetings dur­ing the May-Sept season, including the John Smith's Cup, the highlight of the annual calendar each July.

Taxis Ranks at Rougier Street, Duncombe Place, Exhibition Square, and the train station; or call Station Taxis 01904/623332; Castle Taxis 01904/611511.


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